EN 893-2010 pdf download.Mountaineering equipment-Crampons – Safety requirements and test methods.
This EN 893 specifies safety requirements and test methods for crampons preventing the user from slipping when used in mountaineering on snow and ice Including climbing mixed terrain.
2 Normative references
The following referenced documents are indispensable for the apphcation of this document. Foi’ dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
EN 565. Mountaineering equipment — Tape — Safety requirements and test methods
EN ISO 6508-1, Metallic materials — Rockwell hardness test — Part 1: Test method (scales A, B, C. D, E, F, G. H, K. N. 7) (ISO 6508-1:2005)
ISO 9523. Touring ski-boots lbr adults — Interface with touring ski-binding — Requirements and test methods
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply (see also Figure 1).
crampon
device fitted with spikes, which is intended to cover the sole of a boot, from toe to heel and from one side to the other, so as to provide grip on snow, ice and mixed terrain and which has a system of attachment to the boot
3.2
frame
part or parts of the crampon WhiCh bears the spikes
3.3
front spike
forward pointing spike intended for use when climbing steep terrain
3.4
downward spike
spike usually, but not necessarily, pointing vertically downward
3.5
binding
system of attachment to the boot
3.6
clip-on binding
particular binding which uses a lever mechanism for rapid attachment of a crampon to a boot
3.7
bail
stirrup-shaped part or parts of a binding used to connect the crampon to the toe and/or to the heel of the boot
EN 893:2010 (E)
3.8
attachment rings or eyes
rings or eyes which are threaded by a part of the binding when fitted in accordance with the manufacturers instruction
3.9
adjustment system
system for adjusting the crampon to fit the boot
3.10
retaining system
system which prevents the climber from losing the crampon if the binding fails
spur
other spike than front spikes and downward spikes
4.3.3 Transverse strength of bails of clip-on bindings
When tested in the operating position and according to 5.4.4, the bails of clip-on bindings shall not break and shall not come out of the frame of the crampon. Permanent deformation is acceptable.
If the crampon is directly attached oi’ integrated into a boot the transverse strength requirements are not applicable.
4.3.4 Strength of binding parts other than bails
When tested according to 5.4.5, each part shall not break.
4.3.5 Strength of attachment rings and eyes and of the appropriate part of the binding
When tested according to 5.4.7, attachment rings and eyes and the appropriate part of the binding shall not break.
If the crampon is directly attached or integrated into a boot the strength requirements are not applicable.
4.3.6 Longitudinal strength of the frame
When tested according to 5.4.8, the frame induding the longitudinal adjustment system shall not break.
5 Test methods
5.1 Test samples
The tests shall be carried out on the following number of test samples:
a) If the left and the right crampon are of identical shape: two test samples (one test sample for the tests in 5.4.3 and one test sample for the tests in 5.4.1 and 5.4.4 to 5,4.8);
b) if the left and the right crampon are of different shapes: two pairs (one pair for the tests in 5.4.3 and one pair for the tests in 5.4.1 and 5.4.4 to 5.4.8).
5.2 Test conditions
5.2.1 MI tests shall be carried out at a room temperature of (23 ± 5) °C.
Then apply the force F in the backward direction and measure the slippage of the crampon on the ice when the force F has been applied for 1 mm.
5.4.3 Bending strength test on spikes
Mount the frame of the test specimen as shown In Figure 3 without deformation of the frame and make the groove in each spike.
If It is not possible to mount the frame without deformation, cut out each spike together with the appropriate part of the frame in a manner which does not affect the strength of the material and make the groove in the spike. Mount the test sample as shown in Figure 3.
Apply a force, as specified in Table 1, to the test sample in accordance with Figure 3 a) or b) or c), as appropr ate. Hold the force for (60 ± 5) s and measure the maximum deformation. The rate of loading shall be (200±50)mmlmin.
After removing the force, measure the permanent deformation.
EN 893:2010 (E)
Then load the test sample to the minimum breaking strength as specified in Table 1. If spikes are adjustable, test the spikes at the maximum extension
5.4.4 Transverse strength test on bails
Mount the test sample on a ski-boot in accordance with ISO 9523 as instructed in the information supplied by the manufacturer.
Apply a force of (1 000 ± 25) N on the bails with two tape slings In accordance with EN 565 with a width of
(15 ± 2) mm as shown In Figure 5, and hold the force for (60 ± 5) s. The rate of loading shall be
(200 ± 50) mm/mm.EN 893-2010 pdf download.

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